Day 29, Stage 26: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

Today may have been my longest yet — about 32 km.  It was meant to be mostly flat, and compared to yesterday it was, but since I took the routes that kept me off the road I had a couple little climbs that left me winded.  Not every day will be a glorious one on the Camino, and today was testament to that.  It rained for about half an hour but the sky threatened more for the rest of the day so the fire engine red rain gear was at the ready.  I was walking alone today, intentionally, and enjoyed the solitude.  But the miles wore on, so the only way to keep me motivated was with a little music.  The scenery was beautiful, especially after I got out of Ponferrada.  This section is in the Bierzo region, which has it’s own microclimate which is perfect for vineyards and pears and apples native to the region.

Ponferrada, which was about 7 km from the start of the day is best known for the Castillo de los Templarios.  It’s a 12th C Castle that’s been declared a national monument.  Ponferrada came under the protectorate of the Templar Order by decree of King Fernando II in 1178, but they were outlawed by the Church in 1312, as their increasing power was a threat. Also in Ponferrada is the Basilica de la Encina from the 16th C.  Legend has it that one of the many evergreen holm oak trees that covered the region a vision of the Virgen appeared which elevated this church to Basilica status.

Since Ponferrada is a largish city (62,000 pop), it took awhile to get out of the area and on to country roads, which I greatly prefer.  I stopped for a bocadillo (ham and cheese on a baquette) just beyond the halfway point and then set off again.  In Cacabelos I saw a few other walkers, just about my first of the day, and when offered the scenic route through vineyards I chose it, although it added some km to the trip.  Some of the path smelled of vinegar as the grapes were aging on the vines.

beautiful grape vines turning fall colors with grapes still on the vines

Sometimes when I’m walking alone, with no one else in sight I wonder if I’m on the path, or if I’ve missed a turn.  That was the case many time today, as the way wasn’t as well marked as in other places, so I would stop a local person to confirm that I was still on the Camino.  A yellow arrow is the official sign, but sometimes there are other messages.

Castillo de los Templarios

Tunnel art leaving Ponferrada

Basilica de la Encina

Crossing the Rio Cua in Cacabelos

vineyards (and a perfect spot for a house)

a different sort of arrow