Day 28, Stage 25: Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca

UPDATED to include some photos… commentary not changed.

This was known to be a challenging day, and it didn’t disappoint.  Rising to the highest point on the Camino, 1,500 m, with a descent back to 600 m, the guides warned us of the steep incline, but even more difficult, the downhill.  And the temperature changed and we had a bit of rain to add to the day.  8 hours later we arrived in a charming and historical village of Molinaseca.

Along the way, we reached La Cruz de Ferro, which has become an abiding symbol of the Way.  It stands at 4,934 ft, and it is where pilgrims and other travelers take a moment to pause and reflect and place a stone or a poem or scripture as a monument or token to something or someone.  Although there were many people when I arrived at this spot, it seemed

oh and there were sheep and goats crossing the road

did i mention it was raining?

at the Cruz de Ferro

Puente de Peregrinos

that we allowed each other to have our moment there.  I placed 3 lucky stones, with wishes that shall remain my own.

After a brief stop at the top, where we encountered what we’ve come to call “a man with a van”, we began the climb down.  While for the most part I walked alone today, it seems that when the path becomes challenging, it’s nice to have someone you know sort of nearby, so Kim and Lynn and Keith were around for most of the afternoon.  We passed through two terribly cute and almost abandoned villages on the way.  Keith and Lynn had chosen to stay in Reigo de Ambros and as we walked through we encountered no people at all.  But very cute village, and some friendly cats.

The most difficult part of the journey was next — steep and many rocks, both small and large.  Every step was taken carefully and slowly.  Steady was the watchword, so while we set no records, we arrived in one piece.  (Which is saying a lot… there are many people with shin splints, tendonitis and other physical ailments.  I heard of at least 6 who had to to stop at Leon!)  There were some beautiful spots — rolling hills, mountains in the distance, fog rolling in, sheeps and goats herded across the road.  Another world, and a beautiful one.

Kim was off to Ponferrada (in a cab, after the 27 km, no need to do another 6!), and Karen and I were booked here.  The Molinaseca Puente de Peregrinos is a beautiful medieval bridge at the entrance to town, and the 17th C Church of San Nicolas stands atop a rise.  Tomorrow is another long day — over 30 km (but flat), so I’m resting up for a long one.

sun coming up over the hills 

view from up high