After several long and challenging days, I decided to break up this stage into two, which many guides have as a strenuous 30 km. (Each book and map has different stops and distances, so I’m calling a stage a walking day, vs. those that I rested). Leaving Villafranca there were 3 options: one along the road, one along a natural path with a steep incline and decline, but with breathtaking views over the valley, and the third only recommended for very experienced Camino trekkers. I had hoped to do the natural path route, but the rain kept me to the road. This was the rainiest of the days I’ve had and I needed to wear my fashionable red rain gear for the entire 15 km.
Just as i started the day I met three cousins from Canada. I believe it was Kim who had mentioned them to me at some point — George from Toronto, Nola from the middle of the country and Nancy from the west coast — all met to walk the Camino together. (What do you think Copeland cousins — anyone in for next year)? Walking and talking helped distract from the rain, which was heavy at times, but we were rewarded at some break with a rainbow over the hill. I’m sure that the mountain views would be wonderful, but I’m equally sure that I made the right route decision. We walked through several very small villages that were set back a bit from the road and crossed over the Rio Valcarce several times. The village where I am staying gets its name from aguas mestas as the rios Balboa and Valcarce join here. It’s a lovely rural valley village with sheep and cows grazing against the hilly backdrop. I arrived at the charming Hotel around noon.
And who should be sitting in the bar but John. I first met him walking into Santo Domingo, and we’ve bumped into each other several times. I call him Jersey John, which he doesn’t like a bit, since he was raised in SoCal; however because he’s been on the east coast for decades I sorta think he’s lost Cali designation! He’s had a rough time — attempted the Camino last year and had an accident early on and had to return home for knee surgery! This year he’s taking it a modest pace, and recognizing that sometimes the mind is willing but the body is not. And according to the luggage stored with mine, I will see Karen here later, as well as Lee and David from Australia (remember the tiny snake and other photos of insects from the meseta)? And the Canadian cousins are staying in this hotel as well, so while the village is tiny, there will be a group of pilgrims enjoying a meal together later.
Looking back at Villafranca and the Castillo Palacio de los Marqueses
Rainbow
Arriving in Ambasmestas
Rio Valcarce
Jersey John over some laughs in Molinaseca