Day 22, Stage 20: El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

The 18 km route today is called a senda — a path alongside a road.  While it can be a bit monotonous, it is flat and easy on the feet.  Having a couple of sameness in the days before Leon, and the upcoming mountains on the other side, seems ok when one is still gaining strength and capabilities each day.

It was another beautiful day, broken up for a bit by a big cloud bank, but once again we avoided any rain.  By 11:30 we were 7 km from our destination, so we stopped for a wonderful picnic at Reliegos, along the path.  (I travelled today with Kim and Karen; mostly at a nice pace, and often lost in our own thoughts.)

Montana Bob caught up with us outside of Mansilla de las Mulas (he and many others had chosen the Via Romana for 2 days, which didn’t converge with the Via Frances until this town).  He’s continuing on to Leon for the open market that begins in the morning.  We may try to start out early too, as it’s meant to be a special experience.

This town has an illustrious medieval past, where 3 pilgrim hospitales had sheltered pilgrims.  The name is derived from Mano en Sillo (hand on the saddle), and “of the mules” — perhaps referring to the town’s earlier prominence as a livestock market.  Clearly still an agricultural center, the medieval wall from 12th C still protects the town from much modernity. There’s a bridge over the Rio Esla which I will cross tomorrow on my way into Leon which is also maintained from centuries past.

The days on the vast plain, meseta, have been a relief from the earlier hills, but we will be get back into that more interesting terrain in just a few days after a rest day in Leon.  It’s my last rest day — from there it’s 14 straight days of walking.  I’m feeling stronger, and am still amazed each day by the wonder, the beauty, the people and some occasional magic.  Here’s the mystical story for today:  Aussie Will hadn’t attached his raincoat well enough to his pack and it fell off.  He luckily found a store quickly to purchase a poncho (he credits the lucky stone I gave him!), and then met a woman in the next town who told him she had found the coat.  Gave it to a Russian fellow, but since it didn’t fit, it was passed along to another — Johnny!  So one of my friends has provided another friend with some necessary rain gear, without ever meeting — courtesy of two random people along the way.

beautiful light this morning on old mud house

beautiful light this morning on old mud house

the senda

the senda

at our picnic

at our picnic

some homes are like hobbit holes -- entrance in the side of hill with chimneys

some homes are like hobbit holes — entrance in the side of hill with chimneys

beginning to look like Autumn

beginning to look like Autumn

  1 comment for “Day 22, Stage 20: El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas

  1. Cathy
    September 30, 2014 at 10:44 pm

    Your photos make me think about the relationship between light, art and beauty. I find myself attracted to your photos of the wonders of nature especially those seen with the soft warm light that comes with early mornings and late evenings. So beautiful! I am also in awe of stain glass and how light can transmit such beauty.

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