A short 18 km today along a flat track. We are still in farm country, the high plains, so much of the landscape is as we’ve seen for days. Which is good because I have limited ability to post photos today — pictures not transferring to the Cloud as they should. (The fact that I’m in a town of 250 people and the only businesses appear to be alburgues, hostals and cafes should lead me to understand that the internet might be limited, but I will admit to have been spoiled by the relatively easy access in most towns of all sizes!)
I walked with Kim in the morning, and we met up with Karen during a stop for an early lunch, so I walked with her the rest of the way into this little pilgrim-based village. There’s not much to this places except a main drag and a church, but there are likely over 100 pilgrims here just tonight. It was a beautiful day; the rain last night cleared out the clouds and the humidity and so we had a glorious early fall day. The road split about 5 km out of Sahagun so many people that we’ve been seeing along the route have taken that path, which doesn’t connect until the town I will be in tomorrow night.
In these small villages I’ve lately be staying in hostals, which are not the same as alburgues. Hostals are private rooms with baths, but are mostly housed above a cafe or bar and are family-run. They are clean and safe and as I never intended a 4-star holiday the accommodations suit perfectly. Thought I would mention the food along the Camino here too. Most places I stay offer a breakfast and they are typically European — pastries, cheese and meats, a little fruit and perhaps an egg. Some are more robust than others — some days it’s just toast and juice. You learn to carry some food along with you as you’re never quite sure when you will find a cafe that is open. For lunch I sometimes have packed Serrano ham or chorizo on a baguette, or you can buy a sandwich like this anywhere. For dinner, most cafes offer a pilgrim menu, which is 3 courses — starter, main and desert. Lots of pork and ham for the main, and everything from spaghetti, paella, soup or salad for starter. I’ve been eating just about anything offered — my dietary constraints were left behind. I need the calories for the long walks each day and salads and fruits won’t get me up the hill or across the plains!
As the days go on, with just a bit less than half to go, (with some mountains to traverse soon), it’s easy to be in a bit of routine each day. Just getting one’s feet cared for each day takes time — prepping in the morning before donning socks, and then soaking and elevating in the afternoons. Never have I spent so much time thinking or talking about or looking at my feet. As Karen said a minute ago — I used to have a life that didn’t involve discussing ailments and laundry and the weather. The routine could take one over, but it’s the other conversations along the way where you learn something or take a new view on an idea that really make up what the Camino is all about. People, sharing, learning and growing. And taking care of your feet.
Just think of the pedicure that awaits you in four weeks!