The wonderful casa that I stayed in last night was about 1 km from the town of Vilamayor de Rio, and since I had about 30 km to do today I started out before dawn (which isn’t until almost 8AM here!) I left without breakfast (the entire casa was still quiet and dark), but I had been well fortified by a lovely country meal of salad and potato and chorizo stew from the evening before. Along with the red wine that I shared with Londoners Henry and Clare, it was a terrific end to a good day.
Sunrise was beautiful and I made fast time into Belorado, about 6 km away. I had heard from Nadina that she was nearby, so was pleased to find her at the breakfast stop; she was walking with Matt from Colorado Springs — a United airlines pilot! (Interesting but not at all helpful with upgrades). The 3 of us walked together for the morning and had some dynamic conversations about faith and organized religion. He is a strong believer, but I appreciated that we could have our differences of opinion and discuss this topics as philosophical and intellectual issues.
I left them in Villafranca (just one of several of this name along the route), and headed out for some solitude. The way was a quiet dirt track, but with some mighty hills, climbing up to about 4,000 feet. While wooded and beautiful, it was steeper than most other days. Once at the top, there was a wonderful pine forest, and loads of lavender alongside. I enjoyed watching the butterflies flit and float along as I walked and the air was clean and refreshing.
Finally arrived in San Juan de Ortega (St John of the Nettles — a disciple of St James), to a large, gothic church with a wedding just letting out. At the bar in the plaza I found one of the Aussies from yesterday and the 3 brothers joined soon after. Then along came some Italians on bicycles, with their musical instruments. With drinks in hand there was classical guitar, a mandolin, and some wonderful singing. The Aussie opera baritone chimed in for a few songs and everyone on the bar terrace was just completely gobsmacked! After about a dozen Aussies sang Dancing Mathilda, 8 Frenchwomen sang a traditional French tune and within minutes the bar was all about national songs sung by various nationalities. It was magical. And an experience I will never forget. The Camino…
morning has broken
steep climb
pine forest
my butterfly companion
multinational singalong
I’m calling in my vote right now for the baritone.