Set off at 8AM this morning and the beautiful sunrise and complete solitude had me singing along the road. Unfortunately I can’t remember all the verses to most of what comes to my mind, but “Oh what a beautiful morning” got me going for a bit. The hotel breakfast wasn’t the best so I began to droop earlier than usual. It’s been chilly (fleece and long pants) temperature in the morning, but as soon as the sun gets high in the sky the heat turns up.
The first village of note was Atapuerca which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site when the earliest human remains ever discovered in Europe were uncovered there. They date back over 900,000 years! After this village there was a steep climb to 3,500 feet, with very rough terrain, which made getting into a groove very tough. Being rewarded with stunning views was a plus, and even more exciting was a labyrinth at the top of the mountain. While conscious of the extra steps it would take, I chose to walk it and am glad I did. A wonderful spot and experience. The trail headed downhill from there with a distant view of Burgos.
I picked up a sandwich in a small village Orbaneja, and since I’d been on my own all morning, walked with an Englishman who was on his 2nd Camino. I’m afraid that sometimes you choose the wrong person to chat with and this fellow had some negative energy. I had hoped for shady spot for a picnic, but the next 4 km were shadeless, on white gravel and alongside an airport. It was hot and dreadful and I practically collapsed when we finally got to Castanares. I said goodbye to the English guy (never caught his name), and then I bumped into the Aussies, so walked into Burgos with them. The opera singer had sung at the Mass in San Juan last night — I had dinner with Rita and Jim, the Irish couple, who had stayed in town for Mass and they had said he was just wonderful. It was another 8 km into Burgos, but the route ran along the Rio Arlanzon and through a park so it was quite pleasant after the airport-adjacent track.
I’ve haven’t been out into Burgos for sightseeing yet, but the Cathedral de Santa Maria is 13th C Gothic and said to be among the most beautiful on Spain’s many. It is also the largest, after the one in Sevilla and the square around it has also been designated a World Heritage site.
I’m due to meet Kim (Camino Boot Angel) and her walking companions for dinner tonight, so I’m looking forward to that. I’ve walked at least 20 km for the last 12 days and I am feeling it today. Two more days walking before a rest day!
another sunrise
check out the sunflowers with messages
tough terrain
path in park along the river
Loved today’s update! So many perspectives. And the idea of you belting show tunes on an empty Spanish byway… Makes me tear up!!! Sending you wishes of fleet feet and a gentle road!
The sunflower field must have been stunning!