I began today a bit later than usual, setting off about 9AM, since I only had 18 km to walk. The stage usually takes one to Belorado, another 5 km on, but my accommodation is just south of that larger town in a village of 50! Called Quintanilla del Monte, it is perched on a hillside and seems to consist mostly of ancient stone houses long since abandoned. And right in the midst of this is La Aldea Encantada, a Casa Rural run by a local family. My room is at the top of the house, and there are beams across the ceiling that I’m sure to hit my head on when getting up in the night. Hopefully the scarf and top that I’ve thrown over the top of the beam will help me navigate!
I walked alone for most of the journey today. Met an older Irish couple, Rita and ??, who are staying here to tonight as well, and bumped into the 3 Aussie brothers and their “adopted” 4th brother, Will, from Sydney. The last bit of the walk with them was entertaining, and while I do enjoy the solitude, some companionship helps when you’re getting tired and towards the end. And it seems that I will encounter Johnny at cafes along the route as I did today, where he is staying another night in Granon.
It was beautiful rolling hills and farmland for most of the day, and on a dirt track, but it was alongside a busy road for much of the day, so there was some traffic noise interrupting the typical sounds of farm life — tractors and sheep and cowbells. The little villages along the way are like places that the fast paced world has skipped over — leisurely and in some cases dependent on pilgrims for the economy. We entered the province of Castilla y Leon which is the largest of the autonomous regions in Spain, but very sparsely populated for such a big area.
Tomorrow will be a long 29-30 km into St. Juan de Ortega, with some elevation gain from 800 m to 1,100 m over the day.
view from my bed — beams overhead
Typical small village — Calle Mayor (Main Street) leading into town
hard to tell, but a field of new/small sunflowers
Hi Lorrie, Your words and the pictures are a wonderful combination. We liked your
recognition that the solitude part of the time is rewarding and then when companionship
comes, that is another kind boost to some flagging energy. Beth and Carl
Delightful!!! Your international friend rolodex is going to be amazing, babe!