It was a different start to the day for us today, involving a 3+ hours in the van as we traversed the Sacred and then into the Sacred Valley. The roads were very curvy, involving many hairpins and lots of climbing. Which meant that some people suffered from a combination of carsickness and the altitude.
Our first stop was at a pre-Incan ruin site with over 200 houses built into the hillside above the valley floor. Called Ankasmara, it was amazing that so much of the ruins of the homes remain. Unlike the Wari and Incan ruins we’ve seen so far, these houses were round, and because the stone available in the area was slate, it was understandable how they easily fell into disrepair. But there were some ingenious elements — the stone pegs to hold the straw roofs in place were inside the house so that the winds couldn’t lift them away. We were walking through the area at about 12,500 ft, and we could all feel the altitude after being at the lodge which was at a mere 9,700 ft!
We continued on in the van, much to the consternation of those who endure motion sickness — it was like the Road to Hana at altitude. As we climbed up to the Lares Pass, at 14,600 ft, we saw lots of llama and alpaca grazing among the rocky outcrops. We did get out of the vans to feel the thin air — and the temperature had dropped significantly as well. We passed through the town of Lares, which was not much to look at, and stopped for a picnic lunch alongside a stream near the start of the two hike options.
The “easy” option, about 3 miles, was to begin at Quelquena at 11,960 ft, climb up through a pass at 12,595 ft, and then through some lovely fields of alpaca and horses grazing to the Huacahuasi Lodge, where we will be for two nights — at 12,585 ft. It’s the highest spot yet for us to sleep. The moderate option was to begin at Cuncani at 12,595, climb to the Cruzccasa Pass at 13,838 ft, and then down to the lodge — about 5 miles. (Although we are discovering that the mileage they quote is fairly fungible. I took the easy option, as did most of those who chose to hike today (some are feeling a bit ill and opted to come straight to the lodge). My phone app said I walked a total of 4.4 miles today, so I’m thinking the hiking part was about 3.5 miles.
I guess the real point is that hiking at altitude is slow and difficult. We are all up for the challenge but it’s necessary to stop along the way quite often to slow your heart rate and take a breath or two. Another interesting thing to note is that there are often women along the path selling various woven or knit goods — shawls, hats, llama keychains, bracelets. And because we are often walking through communities, it apparently shows good manners to stop and talk and perhaps buy something. There are enough of us that it doesn’t feel like we each must contribute to the local economy, but we all feel that it’s a good idea to participate.
The weather is ever changing. We had a mostly sunny day, and a good temperature for hiking, but as soon as arrived at the lodge a heavy mist rolled into the valley, practically obscuring the mountains just across a small river. We don’t know what tomorrow will bring, but the hope is that it’s clear enough for a long hike — over 8 miles — over a pass and supposedly one of the most beautiful of this trip. Fingers crossed.
Fascinating and more magnificent mountain vistas!
The llama shots bring a smile to my face. I also love the scenery.