October 2: Amaru to Pisaq

They say that in this part of Peru you should pack for 4 seasons in one day and I would agree that we encountered at least 3 today. And I was only half prepared. But it was an amazing day nonetheless with challenges and a few moments of misery, but mostly really pretty great.

We were loaded into the van at 8 and headed southeast of where we are staying to a place called Amaru, which sits at 13,150 ft, almost 3,500 ft up from our lodge. While not far as the crow flies, vans don’t fly that way, so it took about 40 minutes, and by the time we arrived it had started to sprinkle rain a bit. So before we set out we donned what rain gear we had in our packs, and set out to the Challwacasa Pass, at 14,200 ft. The rain continued, but not too heavy, and we had to take the climb slowly. It was 1.1 miles to gain 1,000 ft, so we stopped fairly often to catch our breath. When we finally reached the summit, there was much jubilation, and then it began to rain in earnest. Which quickly became hail. And the temperature dropped significantly. And I hadn’t packed my rain pants. But with no other solution but to head on down, we managed the muddy trail for 2 miles until we reached Viacha at about 13,000 ft. The altitude wasn’t an issue at all on the descent, it was more about the rain and the mud and the chilly air. Finally Viacha and a light lunch was waiting for us in a tiny village. And the rain stopped and we had some occasional sun.

As we arrived at Amaru, we were met by Alvina, a local woman with two donkeys, one of which was carrying a load. She had walked up and over from the place we had lunch with the donkeys, to walk with us and provide additional water should we need it — the pack on one of the donkeys. She did all this in traditional clothing, and sandals! Here we were, all outfitted with the best hiking gear America can offer and we are huffing and puffing, and she’d already done the climb once that morning! 

After the light meal, we continued down another 2 miles to the Pisaq Archeological Site, and had a chance to learn about the pre-Incan built terraces and homes that were built into the hillside. These terraces have lasted hundreds of years in large part because the walls are so strong. The Incans also rotated crops and brought new soil up from the valley to ensure that the crops had the best advantages. Across from the village, high on the hillside, were the burial grounds. The people were sort of mummified, but in a fetal position, and wrapped and embalmed, often with mint leaves, and stuck into mini-caves/crevices in the mountain. Pretty fascinating.

Then it was back into the van for the trip to the lodge, where we will have a special pachamanca meal tonight. It’s a traditional Peruvian meal where they bake the entire meal on hot stones in a pit and then cover it all with more stones, herbs and finally a tarp and some soil. Apparently cuy will be one of the meats included on the menu tonight. Speaking of, each town we pass through is known for something. There’s a town that offers bread and there are more than a dozen bakeries along the road with women waving down cars to sell their goods. Next to that is the town well known for chicharonnes, which are basically pig skins or pork crackling. Again, dozens of shops displaying their goods. The town we are in now, Lamay is where cuy is famous. There are many restaurants with big fiberglass guinea pigs outside, dressed in chef’s aprons, encouraging people to come in. And in the afternoons, there are women on the sidewalks waving cooked guinea pigs on long sticks.  Just not sure I will try that!

So today was about the challenge of hiking higher than I have ever climbed before. And I feel very accomplished. And exhausted. But mostly pretty good about a day with 3 seasons.

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