I left my house 3 weeks ago today and will arrive in Santiago 3 weeks from today, so I am at about the halfway mark; technically we will reach that spot in km terms tomorrow.
Since today was “only” 21 km, I set out after breakfast and after sunrise at the reasonable hour of 8:30. I had decided to walk with Aussie Will and Canadian Karen, and none of us was in a particular hurry so it was a relaxed and slow paced day, stopping for coffee mid day in tiny Poblacion de Campos (chocolate croissant!), and for lunch in Villacazar de Sirga. Most of the direct path was alongside the road; dull and soulless, but an alternative path curved around it and was tree-lined, along a river and through some farmland.
Villacazar is known for welcoming pilgrams since the 12th C when it became a commandery of the Knights Templar. The wonderful Templar church of Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca is dedicated as a national monument. The sculptured south door and the rose window were both striking, and I appreciated the more Romanesque austerity compared to the Baroque and gilt and over-done cathedrals I’ve also visited.
I’m staying tonight in the Real Monasterio de San Zoilo, dating from the 11th C and connected to the Order of Cluny. It has Romanesque elements but is largely influenced by the Renaissance period evident in the cloisters. I’m happy to be in a lovely spot tonight to rest my feet and have a bit of a break from social component of the Camino.
We’ve noticed some differences as we’ve gone along, just as you would expect in the U.S. The Basque and Rioja regions were very welcoming with big breakfasts and lear roadway markings and welcoming people. In Castille y Leon area, which is primarily driven by farming and small villages supported by the Camino the smiles are a little harder to come by.
path along the river
Rose Window in Villacazar church
Outside of Villacazar Church
photo op spot in Vaillacazar
Monasterio de San Zoilo
over the Rio Carrion
Gorgeous! And great observations about regionalisms. It’s like they said in Scotland when my family lived there – In Glasgow, they say, “Have you had your tea?”, in Edinburgh they say, “Of course you’ve already had your tea.” 🙂