Day 17, Stage 15: Castrojeriz to Fromista

It was a 25 km day, so I set out before sunrise and without breakfast at 7:30.  There were others on the road so I wasn’t alone, but I walked all day by myself and it was nice to have some quiet and no need to converse.

The walk out of Castrojeriz was steep (12% grade) and it was windy and very cold.  I have some things with me that I don’t need and one thing I do need but don’t have — gloves!  Once at the top there was an 18% downhill into farm land… mostly wheat.  It was a long 11 km into the first town, with the only change in scenery as we crossed the Rio Pisuerga into the province of Palencia.  The bridge over the river, called Puente de Itero has 11 arches, and the river itself provided a boundary between the old Castilla and Leon kingdoms. After a bit of breakfast, it was through the wheat fields again, and high stacks of enormous hay bales.

After passing through a small village, Boadilla del Camino, the route became a lovely path alongside a wide canal.  There were reeds on the bank and lots of shade trees blowing in the breeze.  This part of the way, the final 6 km into Fromista, were a welcome relief from the monochromatic farmland.

Fromista is best known for Iglesia de San Martin, which was consecrated in 1066.  It is reputedly one of the finest examples of pure Romanesque in Spain.  I appreciated the simplicity of the interior after seeing so much gold and opulence in the more Baroque cathedrals in other cities.  It was almost spartan inside and a quiet and open space just to sit.

I met a group of people at the hotel bar — Vince and John from Canada, Sarah from Ireland, Jackie from Newfoundland and Tony from Scotland, who were celebrating John’s 60th.  We had some laughs and dinner and Will (the Aussie +1from the Aussie brothers) and Karen, also from Canada, joined in as well. I enjoyed some conversation about Irish history and about how those from the “commonwealth” countries feel about mother England.

Something I thought about today:  there are some who judge those of us have chosen to stay in hotels and have luggage transported instead of backpacking and staying in albergues.  When I detect a comment, I take a line that Kim has used:  “Is your being judgmental something you’re hoping the Camino will help you with?”  Everyone has their own Camino and for me, not having to race out the door in the morning to ensure that I have a bed in a crowded albergue each night is how I have more peaceful and thoughtful days.  I could’ve packed a little less (and remembered gloves), but I’m just so happy to have a quiet spot of my own each evening.

fields of dreams

today’s princess pilgrim look

canal locks heading into Fromista

Iglesia de San Martin