Once again we set the sails early, although not quite as early. We were headed to Iles de la Petite Terre, one of the small islands of Guadeloupe, and classified as a nature preserve. We arrived by 11AM or so, and were greeted by a pod of dolphins. When it became clear that they were sticking around, some jumped in the water and swam around and with them. It was pretty amazing, but there was more to come.
The dolphins (about 8 of them), swam away and a boat from shore had come to explore them as well, which actually sent them further away. So we gathered for lunch and quickly left the delicious mushroom risotto at the table to watch as the pod returned and played and leapt into the air. This group of dolphins were distracting to say the least. There were two planned dinghies over to the island, so some set off (we all couldn’t fit in one trip), and those who were planning on the next shuttle were treated once again to the chance to swim with the dolphins. After watching others for a bit, and hearing that the next dinghy would wait until everyone was ready, I joined the few remaining in the water and had the dolphin experience too. I did not take my underwater camera, since I wanted to experience instead of document, and many others had already taken photos and videos, so I just have the pictures in my mind’s eye and the chance to ask others for theirs! (The last photo is one taken by a guest on board with an amazing lens)!
They are big and strong creatures, elegant in their swim dance. They seemed happy to dive above and below the humans and quite close at some moments. I will say that I was a bit cautious about getting too close; some others dove deep and near, mimicking the dolphins moves, but I was happy to observe and at a couple points they did swim quite close. It was one of those experiences that will not be repeated in life. And would put to shame the manufactured “swim wit the dolphins” resort-based excursion. Quite a wonderful moment.
Finally most of us boarded the dinghy and headed over to the island. It is about 2 miles long, and has one lighthouse and a small channel/bay between the one you are allowed to visit and the one that is a bird nesting preserve. There were too many motor boats and a couple catamarans tied up, and lots of people snorkeling and swimming, so it took some time to get us to shore as we motored slowly in the channel and finally rowed ashore. After walking a bit away from all the people, and recognizing that all the people were there because it was where the best snorkeling was, we found a spot to set our stuff. And I asked the security man on the island, who I mistook for a ranger type, where to go to find the best snorkeling. He did not speak English, so I trotted out my HS French and was able to get enough information (and he did show me a map), to know where to search for what we all hoped to see — sea turtles.
Luckily the motor boats were leaving, which left the bay clear of people and boats, and I spent at least 90 minutes exploring the reef. There were many pretty fish, some larger than we’d seen at other spots, and some quite strange looking. The reef itself was dead or almost so. The coral was all bleached white. There were a few which were still a dark orange, or were the more feathery type, but it was very discouraging to see the habitat bereft of color. Once again I didn’t take the camera so it was just me and the experience. Eventually I came across a turtle and followed him for quite a distance to where he finally slowed down and began eating grasses and other plants along the bottom. I kept raising my head up to announce the turtle, trying to alert others who might be snorkeling nearby but most of the those I had set out with had left the water. I continued to follow this turtle, and found Bill and Elke, who joined me as we watched him slowly have dinner. Shortly another swam by, and as I left the area (I was getting a chill), discovered still more. When another young guest asked me to show her, I went back in the sea and shared the discovery. The water was so shallow that you could see them as they grabbed hold of some plant and chewed it slowly. They were green backed turtles with very well defined markings around their heads, and inquisitive eyes. I kept my distance and they didn’t seem to mind being followed as long as they had access to the plant life at the bottom and a clear way up for some air.
We headed back to the ship around 5:15; the captain had been snorkeling with the dinghy nearby so we got an early ride back. And dinner on board. It was a really special day, with some incredible wildlife experiences. Just amazing.
