Right on time Titus appeared just as we were finishing breakfast. He brought a map and we had also had some time with a guide book, so between his recommendations and the interest expressed by different guests we slowly put together a plan and a price negotiation. The larger group went with my recommendation for the day, which was to be transported to a small bay to the north that is part of the Cabrits National Park — the protected marine area. I really just wanted a beach and some snorkeling, and Tucari Bay seemed to have both, as well as a beach bar. We once again had to have our meals on land, which continues to stress me out a little, and knowing that there was some sort of restaurant at the beach sealed the deal for me. That and being able to snorkel right off the beach.
Titus’ small boat was a little overloaded, but the sea was calm and he drove slowly through Prince Rupert’s Bay and then past Douglas Bay into a smaller area that was Tucari. I’m not sure what I expected but I think my vision of white sand beaches and clapboard inns with wrap around balconies must be linked to all my past island experiences at resorts… the Keeping It Real Cafe was still under re-construction from Hurricane Maria, and the sand was the dark/black kind that’s sticky and hard to wipe off. So my first impression was of a bit of disappointment. Which evaporated with beach loungers and Caribe beer and some really excelling snorkeling.
We hit the water a little later than some of the others — Elke, Bill, Bernd and me — and took our time taking in the coral reef and the fish life. Many beautiful species — blue tang and zebra and dozens of others with names I no longer recall, if I ever knew them! It was quite wonderful, and gave new meaning to “swimming with the fishes”. We decided to swim around the point into Douglas Bay, where Titus had mentioned some excellent snorkeling — we passed a couple divers in the area on our way over to Tucari. It was a longer swim than I had realized and coming back required lots of hard swimming — for me without fins. Bernd and I saw a larger barracuda — but just one, and I was very focussed on swimming, switching off between the crawl and breast stroke. Finally back around the bend and still so many beautiful fish and coral to see. But it had been awhile and I was tired, so we headed to shore and to a chair, a blanket and a beer.
Some had decided to eat a late lunch there, so we were a bit late to the party; most had called for transport back to the ship around 2:30. We hadn’t had our food yet so decided to walk to town and take the later boat back. Seems like many restaurants here serve something resembling a Hawaiian mixed plate — there were protein options — fish or chicken or lobster — and rice, plantains, salad and other things on the plate for a set price. The lobster, the Caribbean type, grilled, was good but over-cooked, which was unfortunate. But not critical. Especially washed down with a beer. Then the 4 of us walked about 2.5 miles into town, in search of some modest snack platter food for dinner on board. On the way we encountered Bongo, a good friend of Titus, who offered us local fruit right off the tree. We offered some payment, which he refused; just wanted us to sample the local culture and fruit. He had the most wonderful smile.
The markets we past were all small, bodega types, but we were able to put together some cheese and crackers and tuna and tomato and it was enough after our big lunches. We arrived at the jetty with more than an hour to kill and not much to look at or do while waiting. When a young local walked by asking if we needed a boat, I encouraged us to pursue that conversation. I really didn’t feel like hanging around for an hour. The guy asked for $10/head, Bill negotiated to $5/each, which they felt was too much and I felt was just fine. Because I felt my time was worth $20 I paid and we got back to ship by 6ish instead of 7ish.
Made up the platter/snack plate and spent some time talking with a passenger named Lutz about the state of the world and politics and Trump. Got me riled up, but it’s hard not to be with the impeachment underway and no wifi!
Early to bed because we had agreed with Titus for a 6:30AM pick up and tour up the Indian River. Which isn’t that early on this ship — everyone is up early!