As we get closer to our days in Machu Picchu we are increasingly spending time in villages and at sites that reflect the Incan influence. Today we left the high mountain lodge we had been at for two days, and headed over a pass and into another valley. It was cold and misty rain when we climbed into the vans, but as we climbed we found snow! And alpaca of course. We were headed for the community of Huilloc, where we were to be part of a traditional Quechua ceremony of the blessing of the sheep.
The ceremony is generally held just twice a year, but I would guess that it’s been added to the tourism train. Not to be cynical about it; I actually greatly admired their tradition and the effort they took in demonstrating it for us, and having us participate. Essentially they are asking the surrounding mountains and Mother Earth to ensure that their flocks and herds are safe and well. They chant to the mountains using coca leaves, and on the makeshift altar they have elements which reflect their beliefs. Finally they tie one lamb so his legs are tucked underneath him, and lay him on a bed of flowers shaped in a cross, and use a red mineral from the mountains to make a cross along the lamb’s back. Then in turn, each person dribbled a bit of special chicha along his back in the shape of the cross and tossed the remained to 3 other sheep/Mother Earth. Finally we were all given 3 coca leaves, held together with the rendered fat of the alpaca, and told to send our good dreams and hopes to the mountains. We all laid our leaves in a hole dug at the site so that we leave a bit of us behind in Peru. There was more to the ceremony but some got lost in translation. I will say that the local people have done a good job on somehow integrating their Andean religion and beliefs and worship of the sun, moon, and earth, and the Catholic trinity that came with the Spaniards. So many elements of the ceremony are done in threes.
Quite nearby there was a site called Markaqocha, which is where the bi-annual ceremony typically takes place. There’s a church that was built in the 1600’s, on top of an Incan stone, that is only used on special occasions. It still has a thatched roof and a working bell tower.
Then it was on to a pre-Incan community of Pumamarka, which sat up high on a hill overlooking a valley below. Many buildings were partially still intact and you were able to see how they had created homes with several levels. The Incas came to this spot during or after some war and occupied it, changing a few elements, but mostly appreciating the work that had been done in establishing a spot that became an agricultural production center for the valley below.
After a box lunch at the bottom of the hill, a group of us took the hike downhill to the town of Ollantaytambo. The hike was beautiful with gorgeous views of the valley below and the original Inca terraces in the hillside. We followed some original Incan aqueduct most of the way down, the stone having survived the centuries. The town of Ollantaytambo has increasingly become a tourist destination for its well-preserved Incan buildings in the village, and an archeological site on the hillsides around the town. We will visit the main site tomorrow; today we walked through the town, noting the original stones in the buildings and the food stores way up on the hillside.
Our hotel for the night is a compound of little casitas which are lovely and full of unique local art and ceramics. We have to re-pack into smaller bits of luggage and backpacks for touring Machu Picchu tomorrow so that consumed some time and effort this evening. It’s all very exciting, as this is the highlight of the trip for many people. I’ve seen and learned so much about Peru and the Incan and pre-Incan cultures so far that Machu Picchu seems less like the destination and more like a culmination. Exciting days ahead.
What a beautiful ceremony to experience.