September 29: Around Cusco

Today was my day to explore Cusco. I got a late start because of some difficulty sleeping last night. The combination of the elevation, some strange noises in the walls, and perhaps the coca leaf candy I ate after dinner all contributed to my disruptive sleep. I’ve since discovered that the sounds in the wall are the heating unit, which I can turn off, and that the coca leaf tea and candy are stimulants. Note to self about things to avoid this evening!

I finally set out around 10 on a beautiful sunny day, with temps somewhere in the low 60’s. As I made my way toward the main plaza I heard music and happened upon a parade. There were mostly school children dressed in matching costumes, some playing instruments, some just marching, and then some older groups, all dressed the same. On the steps of the Cathedral someone with a bullhorn was announcing the various groups as they passed by, and many of them held banners at the front of their group. I asked a local what was special about today and he told me that this happens every Sunday; someone else noted that it was various school groups. Whatever the reason, it was festive, and busy and people were dressed in their finest, many showing their affiliations by wearing the same colors.

I continued on, as my destination was the Temple of the Sun, which was a bit further on, and the crowds thinned out as I got closer. Only to discover that the museum was closed until 2PM. And also to discover that the museum is housed in the Santa Domingo monastery. I had thought that this site would be more Incan than Spanish; I will have to go back to know for sure. Instead I headed towards the San Blas neighborhood, which is uphill and known as the more bohemian section of town. 

At the main square was a lovely water fountain/fall, next to the San Blas church. On the steps were several local Quechuan women in full local costume with their pet alpacas. There was a fee charged to take a photo. I’m not sure who is the more exploited in that scenario — the tourist, the alpaca or the woman forced to ask a fee for a photo.  As I continued on I found myself on the Andean Camino! There were signs along the route explaining that the Quapaq Nan was an extraordinary road network through challenging terrain and used over several centuries by caravans, travelers, messengers, armies and whole population groups. The network is based on four main routes, which originate from the central square in Cusco. This road network, covering over 385 miles, makes clear the achievements of the Incas in architecture and engineering. I was walking along the Antisuyu route. It was fascinating to me… and amazing that I happened upon it.

I lunched at Pachapapa, which means Earth Father, a restaurant that had been recommended for local Peruvian food, and enjoyed a Chicha Morado, a non alcoholic drink made purple by the purple corn native to this region, along with Aji de Gallina, a Peruvian chicken stew known as a comfort food. Delicious.

Back to the main square and time for a tour of the Cathedral. As I entered a young woman asked if I’d like a tour, so I agreed, and she walked me around the two side churches and into the main cathedral, pointing out various relics and encouraging me to appreciate how the conquistadors instructed the Incas in their ways and religion, while directing the Incas to build the cathedral and carve the pulpit and choir loft and sacristy. I think my guide cut my tour short after she learned that I wasn’t Catholic and that I knew enough of the history of Pizarro and the other Spaniards to not appreciate how they forced their religion on an earth-loving people while stealing their silver and gold. It was a spectacular building, but to me, tainted.

Feeling a bit tired from the altitude and sun I headed back to the hotel and chatted for a bit with a couple who were just returning from the trip I’m about to undertake tomorrow, with the same (excellent) guide. I’m hoping for an early dinner and restful night. Tomorrow begins the tour.