August 2: Resurrection Bay and the Gulf of Alaska

They called today our marine holiday, as it was spent primarily on a mid-sized boat exploring the rugged coastline of Kenai Fjords National Park. We boarded the Weather or Knot in Seward and headed out Resurrection Bay towards the Gulf of Alaska, looking for seabirds and other signs of the local wildlife that summer in the area. The day was cold (some would say chilly), and rainy (no dispute on the precipitation), so the ride was a little bumpy, but the expert captain and first mate were excellent at pointing out the sights. Starting with a bald eagle sitting on the rocks right as we exited the marina area.

We were moving pretty fast but then slowed near some tall rocky outcroppings and discovered some harbor seals resting on the lower rocks near the sea, and some horned puffins high up on a ledge. We came across many more puffins as they flew alongside the boat, or rested in the waters, but they were elusive to photograph.  As we turned into Aialik Bay we discovered some humpback whales which feed in these waters — their telltale spouts giving them away from a distance. 

At the “top” of the finger-like Aialik Bay we came to the Aialik Glacier, an outflow from the enormous Harding Icefield.  It is a tidal glacier, meaning that it flows directly into the water, and we heard, and saw several calvings while the boat stopped for a bit for us all to take in the magnificent blue/white ice. It is more than a mile across, and it’s difficult to understand the scale — the one photo with the other tourist boat helps put it in perspective. 

We stopped at a remote beach where a lodge is based to allow a few passengers to disembark, and were offered a quick walk along the beach and into an adjacent rain forest. I politely declined while my group set off for about an hour. It was still raining and getting more wet and cold simply wasn’t on my bucket list. It gave me time to read my book and feel the gentle swells of the boat — a change from the bouncing of the high speed ride across the bay. 

Once the group returned we began the ride back toward Seward, and were fortunate to find some stellar sea lions lounging on a rock. And then a sea otter with a baby on her belly swimming across an inlet. Finally, and most surprising, a pod of orcas! I was lucky to catch a photo of the fins as they crossed our path. 

It was a bumpy ride back, and a long day on the sea — we boarded at 8AM and got back to the hotel just before 5PM. We have dinner on our own tonight, so a few of us will head into town and find a local restaurant to explore. I will be glad to be out and about for a bit; as I sit here writing this I’m feeling the movement of the sea! At dinner we were treated to a sea otter swimming in the marina, and driving a border collie on the dock crazy, and the official weigh in of some halibut, one of which topped 60lbs! A very enlightening day.

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