Breakfast at 7, and we had to be out of the Refugio at 7:30, so it was an early start. Not much to eat — shared plates of scrambled eggs and not great toast and processed ham and cheese. So Liz and I split one of our fruit bars. We had to take our big pack with us down to the Big Foot Adventure office, since we were leaving the area from there, but we had small bags with our important stuff and the outfitters gave us backpacks to carry for the glacier hike. (We hadn’t originally signed up for this excursion — it was extra $$ — but when Liz reminded me that it’s unlikely that we’d do this again, I was able to get us on the trip, and I’m happy we did.)
Same small boat as the day before took us to the other side of the peninsula to a spot where we had to scramble/boulder hop up over the top to get to an access point for the glacier. It was a tricky climb, pretty much straight up a rocky incline. There were two spots where ladders had been bolted into the rock, and I followed closely behind anyone sure footed to be sure I knew the best place to put each foot. It’s too easy to step wrong and twist an ankle. The incline got my heart beating pretty early on, but without a big pack, it was well within my range of capability… just a bit challenging. It was an hour to the glacier, and at the spot we went onto it the outfitters had us put on harnesses and crampons and helmets and gave us some tips about how to walk on the glacier. Toe first walking up, and heel first walking down. On a slope, point your downslope foot down, so as not to twist an ankle, and use the ice ax like a walking stick.
One by one we took a high step onto the ice and followed the guide in a single file. We were instructed not to gawk and take photos along the way, but instead to stop, look, photo, or wait until we arrived at several pre-determined spots. Parts of the ice were deep blue, especially down in crevasses, and there was water running down the hills that could be filled in our bottles — ice cold and clear and clean. In some spots, the running water appeared to melt or weaken the ice below, but its so very packed/compacted that there really wasn’t any worry about falling into a hole, unless you stepped into one of them. The guides were great with helping us with photos and ensuring that we were together and safe. It was cold when we reached a high spot and the wind picked up, but mostly we were comfortable. It helped that it was a gorgeous sunny day with little wind. The peaks that look like a city skyline or waves stopped at their height showed where the main current of the glacier ran, moving up to 10cm each day. It’s hard to understand that something that appears to be rock solid can actually be moving and the surface changing all the time. This particular glacier has receded significantly in the past 5 years — the spot where we “parked” the boat was covered in ice for another football field length not that long ago. It was a great experience — very enjoyable.
After about 2 hours on the ice, we headed back to the same spot and after removing all our ice gear we hiked back up and over the mountainous peninsula — another hour — this time mostly down.We had a “fire brigade” to hand backpacks in, and life vests out, just as we had done when we first arrived, now in reverse. The guides obviously have this down to a science. Then back to the landing spot, and re-connecting with our guides.
There’s a tourist boat that runs from the bottom of Grey Lake to the glacier for day-trippers mostly that we would hop on to get back to where a van would then drive us back to our luggage at the hotel in Puerto Natales. Originally meant to depart at 2, it was a couple of hours late, but we were just grateful that it was running at all. Sometimes it can’t run, if the winds are too high, and in that scenario, we would’ve had to have hiked back to Paine Grande, the 11km that was so windy and would’ve been more uphill than down. I truly didn’t think I could do another day of the huge pack. So I happily waited in the sun next to the lake waiting for the late ferry. We ate our box lunches and rested and finally got on the boat around 4:30.
Since it was a day trippers tour, it went back up to the glacier, and at first our group were the only people who didn’t leave our seats to take photos on deck — we figured we’d already seen it. Hell, we were on it! But the ferry seemed to go to areas we hadn’t seen yet, or perhaps the angle or perspective was different, so soon enough we were all up with cameras taking pictures and oohing and aahing with everyone else. The pisco sours had us all in a good mood too. Once we turned around and headed to the “port”, it was fairly quick. But the lake was rough and the wind and water high, so we had to be portaged to the shore. We were in the second boat, and it was rocking like crazy, with wet spray and wind. Definitely an adventure. And it was heaven to get in the van.
We had about 2 1/2 hours to the hotel in Puerto Natales and it mostly on a dirt/gravel road — very bumpy and slow. Some beautiful scenery and the clouds were low in the big sky — pretty gorgeous. Got to town at 9:30, collected our stuff and Jay brought in pizzas to the common room, and we unpacked the packs and repacked the day packs and suitcases. So very late to eat and then try to sleep… took me awhile. And I saved my shower for the next morning.
We said goodbye to Rosario and the driver (with tips), and the only complaint I would have so far about the total operation is that there should’ve been some water at lunch, and in van when we got to shore — we went a long time without food or water. In NZ the van had snacks (albeit it was the same van for the entire trip), but I feel like there should be some accommodation for that made. But otherwise the entire Chilean part of the Patagonia adventure has been pretty amazing, and well worth the time/effort/expense. And I’ve learned a lot about how to backpack — or really how not to!
