Our morning call was for 7AM breakfast, to be on the trail at 8. Scrambled eggs, toast and a big mug of tea. To not add more weight to the pack, just took the sandwich and nuts from the lunch pack. It was to be a 3-part trail day: 5.5km from Los Cuernos to the Italian Camp. Then 1.5km each way up to the French Valley (with day packs — heavy ones could be left at the Camp), and then 7.5km from the Italian camp to Paine Grande Refugio on Lake Pehoe (Lost Lake).
The first section was flat to start, and then switchbacks as the trail led up. It was rocky, and we crossed streams repeatedly. It rained for an hour or so, but the real issue was crazy crazy wind. At one point it was necessary to steel myself against the wind so as not to be blown over. In between the rain squalls a beautiful rainbow appeared, which was a double, with a very faint one above a very vibrant one which terminated in the lake. About 1/2 hour from the Italian camp it began to rain in earnest. (This camp was so named because of a group of Italian climbers who had attempted t o climb or circumvent the mountain.) We left our packs and began heading up the trail to the French lookout. At the first spot with a view we stopped for photos, and this was the spot where I decided not to go further. The terrain was rocky and slippery and sort of like the morain of the first day, and despite having just a small pack, the wind and the rain made it seem very unpleasant and too challenging — something I simply preferred not to undertake. So I headed back to camp to wait with one other from our group and Liz went on with the group.
At the time I felt I made the right decision for me — didn’t like that terrain. Rain was coming down pretty hard and so it was okay to call it as I did. (I only have minor regrets now — the photos show that it cleared up and was quite beautiful, but Liz can share those pics. I’m sure I could’ve done it, and had I been the only person making that choice I might have gone ahead, but again, it felt right at the time). The view was of a massive natural amphitheater, filled with the awesome French Glacier, the Paine Massif and the Curenos granite towers.
The group returned at 1PM, as promised and we sat by a stream just outside the camp for our lunch break. The last part of the trail was pretty easy, mostly rolling up and down, but more down than up. The wind continued to be crazy but the sun was out and other than the too-heavy pack it was okay. The Paine Grande Refugio was at the edge of the lake, and although it didn’t have the nice outdoor space of Los Cuernos, there was a really nice bar upstairs, and a common room with many electrical outlets, and wifi to purchase (which I did). We were once again 6 to a room (same group), but there were big windows and a few hooks, so a little easier to deal with all our stuff. After a shower, which wasn’t as hot as I typically enjoy, and again with the push button, we went upstairs for a glass of wine with the group.
Dinner was early (crowded refugio so we lined up quickly, cafeteria style), for pot roast with a wheat based something like farro, and a salad, a rare treat. It was the best meal to date from my perspective. We are noticing a dearth of fruits and vegetables — most dinners are a meat and a starch, and lunches are an enormous sandwich and usually an orange. Liz and I are missing “our” food.
At this place we finally had to use our sleeping bags and liners, which actually made me happy — otherwise we’d been lugging them around for nothing! Although it’s difficult to sleep feeling mummied up in the liner, even if the bag is unzipped. I’m also happy that there’s only one more day of the heavy pack — counting down the miles.
