Another beautiful day in Basque Country. I was due to meet my walking partners at 7:15 this morning but had a call that they were ready a bit before & so I threw my things on and together and we set off before the sunrise at 7:15 (as planned). It was a 22.2 km day, with some elevation gain and some descents, but nothing like yesterday.
It seems that the typical day starts without breakfast or caffeine, so the first 3-5km are a bit quiet as we make our way through the early morning mist and chill to the first village that will provide coffee, croissants, and in my case tea. We stopped in Burguete for just those provisions and then continued our walk, crossing over the Rio Urrobi and into Espinal. Mary, Nadina (our newest member, from Switzerland), and I arrived at the junction where the Iglesia de San Bartolome sits, and encountered a gentleman who seemed to like to engage walkers/pilgrims in conversation. He told us that he was a teacher of mathematics and was on his way to San Jose (I feel a song coming on!), to raise money for a mission to Africa where he would teach mathematics to those that want to learn. He pointed out the hills above us and told a story about an American squadron in WWII that parachuted into the forest after a plane went down and how he (at 10 years old) and his dad took sandwiches up to the American soldiers. He had a fascinating range of stories.
We crossed the Rio Erro and took the opportunity to soak our tired feet in the cool water, and prep and bandage any foot that seemed to need it, as we had another 12 km to go. After some lovely paths through old forests but rocky paths, we finally got to Zubriri about 3:30. My companions were lucky to find spots in the albugues; they filled up fast. We passed the long sunny afternoon on a terrace with umbrellas and beers, greeting others we had met along the way, as well as new friends.
Johnny will sleep in his tent tonight along the river and we all turned in early after re-connecting with Martina, who Freddie and I met in the first hour of our journey on Tuesday, and her walking friend, Julia from the Netherlands. Our time together is full of laughter and the exchange of experiences and cultures. Vive la Camino.
Walking with the moon from Roncevalles
Getting ready after a rest by the river
one of the best from yesterday crossing the Pyrenees
The road from Burguete