The day after the full moon dawned sunny and windy, and I set off across the Aude River to the first, original Carcassone, up on the hill. Originally part of the Roman Empire, as it appears much of this region was, the original site was founded as early as the 1stC. The City suffered long periods of occupation at the hands of the Visigoths and the Saracens, and was finally intregrated into the kingdom of France in the 7thC. It became the seat of a powerful Count who angered the Pope, who declared a crusade against the heresy. It fell in 1209, and was handed over to the King of France in 1226. It was transformed into a Royal fortress, at the forefront of a defensive line to guard against the Franco-Spanish border, which was right here, and lost in the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659. The main industry, once the role of border crossing was lost, was the production of woolen cloth, which has since declined as well.
With all the wars and lack of oversight, the medieval city and the surrounding fortress fell into decline. The Chateau, that had been the home to the powerful Trencavel family, also fell to disrepair, and it was the foresight and interest in medieval history and architecture brought by one man that has restored it to its current state. A local erudite named Jean-Pierre Cros-Marevieille identified the fortress and the Chateau as important cultural and historical landmarks, and with the expertise of the architect Eugene Violet-Le-Duc they uncovered the rich and long history, as well as the various building styles used in the construction. A short film explains how the reconstruction was carried out, and how subsequent archeologists have determined the ages and styles of the buildings. For instance, I learned that the Romans, when building a stone wall, would insert a “leveler” of brick partway up the structure. Who knew? A tour of the castle and the ramparts, hoardings and keep, which still has some exceptional wall paintings, also includes a museum collection of sculpture from Antiquity and the Middle Ages.
The Basilica of Saint-Nazaire was quite beautiful. The stained glass windows were spectacular and the organ, which was being played while I visited, was first constructed in 1639! It is mainly Romanesque in construction, but with the years it took to complete, there are some Gothic touches.
Carcassone is the largest and best preserved medieval fortress in Europe. A masterpiece of military architecture, its grandiose appearance, the complexity of its dense system with its double walls, castle and basilica, whose stained glass windows are considered to be the most beautiful in the south of France, all have contributed to the UNESCO World heritage listing.
After walking the ramparts and the stone streets and touring the castle and church, I was done, so headed back to the hotel for a rest before finding a simple dinner of pizza somewhere in the main town. And there went Thursday.
The leaded stained glass is stunning!