August 19 & 20: Provence

Yesterday was a long drive from Conques, and without much to note. I was lucky in avoiding any serious traffic issues, which surprised me, as Saturdays have been notoriously difficult driving days. It was still almost 250 miles and I didn’t arrive until 4PM. But oh the wonder of knowing that you can sit still for 2 weeks! And have a kitchen in which to prepare meals. Such a luxury after 3 weeks of restaurants and hotels/B&B’s.

The first part of the drive took me along narrow curvy roads and through the midi Pyrenees. There were medieval villages perched high on hillsides and some cliffs and mountains in the distance. As I approached Montpelier and the sea, the land flattened out and became more wheat colored and less green. There were significant gorges; I crossed the Viaduc de Mailau, which is a cable stayed bridge that spans the valley of the River Tarn. It is the tallest bridge in the world, with one mast’s summit at almost 1,000 ft above the base of the structure. It was astounding, and with some descents of 5-7%, lots of braking as cars navigated the highway. I wished I could’ve stopped for photos, but it was impossible to do so.

I’ve rented a house in the Luberon area of Provence, about 1/2 hour north of Aix-en-Provence near a tiny little town called Grambois. There are rolling hills and vineyards and the most lovely breeze on sunny and hot days. I’m in heaven. The swimming pool makes it pretty perfect. And the sunset out my bedroom window pretty much sealed the deal.

I had stopped on my way here at a hyper market, which I had thought was a basic grocery store, but it was more like a huge Walmart but with extensive grocery and fresh food section. I worried that I was supposed to have a card — looked at first like a CostCo — but I figured they’d either take my money as I played the dumb American, or it would’ve just been an experience to see it! I didn’t go food-shopping crazy, but knew that I didn’t want to drive at all on Sunday, so enough for a couple of days was perfect.

And today, Sunday, was what a Sunday anywhere should be: went for a run, had some breakfast, did some laundry (now there’s the real heaven for a road-weary sort), sat by the pool, swam some laps and am about to grill some dinner.

It is so nice to sit still that I have to remind myself that I’m in a beautiful part of the world, and need to get out and see it. Which I will do. Tomorrow.