The clouds and rain persisted in Rennes, but I set off mid morning heading southwest, into what had been the Loire Atlantique region of Brittany, but is now technically part of the Pays de la Loire region. Like other parts of Brittany, it has a strong sense of history, and there have been campaigns to reunite it with the Bretagne. Part of this has to do with the coastal industries that are part of the heritage and economy of Brittany, and part has to do with the Celtic connection. Which I’m seeing evidence of tonight in Guerande, which this week is holding a music festival. And there are games set up in the church courtyard in an effort to re-introduce the Breton traditions to today’s society. The families seemed to enjoy the wooden games of skill and strategy.
Guerande has long relied on the nearby salt marshes for their economy. The old town is enclosed within 14th and 15thC ramparts like St. Malo, but most of these are original walls. The Collegiate Church of Saint Aubin dominates the town centre is largely a 14th century rebuilding of the church in the gothic style, although some parts of the earlier roman style church that previously stood here can still be seen, such as some columns and capital stones in the nave. Inside the church are some elaborately carved altars in the chapels and some very richly coloured stained glass windows added around the 16th century. The Chapel Notre-Dame-la-Blanche is the oldest building in the town, having been built in the 13th century in the gothic style. And throughout are cobble stone streets and shops selling salt and caramels and Breton pastries. The galettes and crepes are traditional here too, but the area is also known for oysters.
On my drive I happened upon the little town of Missillac and stopped to pick up a baguette. Of course I wandered into the gothic church on the square which I can’t even find the name of! I thought the rose window was particulary stunning. And just outside of town I happened upon a chateau set on a lovely little lake. Château de la Bretesche was built in the 14th century and rebuilt a century later. It was besieged in the Wars of Religion and destroyed during the French Revolution and was rebuilt again in the 19th century. Today it is a hotel and golf resort. Picture perfect. But that might be all it is.
I’m staying at a lovely B&B just inside the town walls, and have the most beautiful room and view — just had to share. It seems it will be noisy, as these old houses are, but I’ve got earplugs!
Tomorrow, more exploration of the area near the sea before I head inland for several weeks.
Looks like a lovely little town.