Having checked the weather, because let’s face it, I am that geek, I knew that the next two days were meant to be rainy and cool, and even more so by the coast. So I changed up my itinerary a bit to head south and inland to a city that would provide museums and other city-type activities since it wasn’t going to be an outdoors kinda couple of days. Only an hour from St Malo and a world away, Rennes is the capital of Bretagne so the administrative offices for the province are here, as well as significant historical sites. Rennes is also home to a university, so it feels like a young town.
Once the rain had let up, my walking tour took me past the Saint George Palace, which was formerly an Abbey residence. Built in the 17thC, the current building has the name of the 38th abbess who directed the building — Magdelaine de la Fayetteville. Currently it serves as a civil administration building, and has a lovely garden attached.
I passed by the St-Germain Church which was built during the golden period of Breton religious art from the 15th-17thC’s. The progress of the building took awhile, so it began in the flamboyant Gothic style and then finished in the Renaissance style. There are several notable elements, but the one they call attention to is the great southern window. Remants of 16thC stained glass were assembled in disorder, but put right in a restoration in 1994. The 24 panels reflect stories both biblical and legendary. It’s surprising that it could be recreated.
Onwards towards the city center, first past the Parliament building, which was built in 1665, and now serves as the city’s Court of Appeals. Across from the Opera House, which was built in the 18thC trend for curved architecture, sits The City Hall, a concave building complementing the convex Opera House across the square. It was built in the 18thC, and offers tours, which I guess I should consider for tomorrow.
Finally arrived at Saint Peter’s Cathedral of Rennes, which was unlike any of the other cathedrals or churches I’ve seen in my travels. The first cathedral built on the site was probably in the 10thC, and it had to be rebuilt at the end of the 12thC and again at the end of the 15thC. The whole structure was demolished again and work began in earnest in the early 1800’s, completed in 1844, but a dome was added later in that century to turn it into a true Roman basilica. There are 44 columns on the front, and once inside it’s a perfect neo-classical structure, with another 44 pillars coated with stucco to look like red granite. There are wall painting all along the walls and above the windows depicting the procession of the saints, and scenes of the life of Saint Anne, the Virgin Mary, the 12 Apostles and other religious elements. Unusual and to my taste, way over the top.
On my way back to the hotel, one more church caught my eye, the Eglise Toussaints, a Baroque edifice from the 17thC. It had the most amazing sculpted altar (?) at the front of the nave, while the remainder of the room was fairly simply and bright. I’m sure it’s from various renovations, but still, an interesting juxtaposition. That’s it for churches. And old buildings.
Found a grocery store for some apples and bananas and snacks, and an Asian restaurant for a change. I’ve had more than enough pain et fromage so far, and still weeks to go. Needed some vegetables and rice.
And that’s Tuesday.
