A rainy day suggested one spent on more indoor pursuits so I decided to make the long drive to Rouen to see the Cathedral and other sights in that lovely city along the Seine. My host at the B&B where I’m staying suggested a scenic route through the Natural Park that hugs the Seine as it curves it’s way to Rouen, which feature several belle villages, as well as some chateaus and churches. So I set the GPS in my new best companion — a Mazda M3 that is mine for the next 5+ weeks (zoom zoom) — and headed off around 10AM.
It started out okay; I was able to follow along through the roundabouts and onto the various highways, but it went dreadfully wrong somewhere and I ended up going over the same bridge — the Pont de Normandie — twice! And then when it suggested I turn around and go again I decided to follow the road signs to Rouen and skip the scenic route. Needless to say it was a long trip. Finally I found my way to the center of town and parked the car and did the city sightseeing stroll that I’ve perfected in my months of wandering.
I passed by the Palace of Justice, the construction of which was begun in 1499 by Louis XII, to serve as a permanent exchequer, or law court assembly. It later became the parliament of Normandy. The original building was completed in 1509, and has been enlarged and repaired over the centuries, but remains a great example of medieval Gothic architecture.
Also enroute to the Cathedral is Le Gros Horlage, which was moved to an archway over the street in 1527 and displays two faces — one with a single hour hand and a panel showing the phases of the moon.
The Cathedral de Notre Dame took nearly 400 years to complete and stands as a record of the entire span of French Gothic architecture, and was completed in the late 16thC. The lantern tower rises 495 ft above the transept and features the busts of the builders seemingly shouldering the columns above. The typical Gothic nave has 4 storeys: arches, tribunes, a gallery and upper windows. Having survived for centuries, the Cathedral was devastated by bombing on April 19,1944. Only two flying buttresses kept the building from collapsing; repairs continue, and it seems amazing to me that it looks as magnificent as it does, having seen the photos of the bomb damage. Initially not admired the spire has become well loved, and is the tallest in France, matching the height of the hills around the city.
I stopped by the Eglise St-Maclou — an example of the Flamboyant Gothic style — which sits in the middle of the old part of town where all the antique shops are. I was surprised by the surrounding architectural style of the buildings, known as Normandy half-timbered, many survived the war.
Last stop in Rouen was Saint-Ouen Abbey Church, which had been the church of the Abbey, the most powerful Benedictine monasteries in Naomany between the 14th and 16thC’s. In addition to the very beautiful light that filters through the 80 (!) stained glass windows, the abbey church is known for its great organ which is one of the most recorded instruments in the world. The present day City Hall was constructed in the former monks’ dormitory.
Then it was back to the car, and after a brief argument with the GPS system I headed out to try to find that scenic road home — and to find the Jumieges Abbey. A successful drive through some beautiful wooded roads brought me to the ruins of this great Benedictine abbey, which was original founded in 654. Like many religious monuments this one has been through many modifications and reconstructions, and since it was privately owned for some time in the 17th-18thC’s, it was even raided as a stone quarry! The scale is incredibly impressive — the nave is over 75 ft high. There’s an abbatial dwelling just behind the ruins which was built in 1671 and is used as a museum to house some of the statues and artifacts.
Then I pointed my car towards home and the only hiccup came when the GPS told me that in 2.4 Km I should drive onto the car ferry. After some trepidation, and watching how it worked, I did exactly that, along with 6-7 other cars, and we crossed the Seine in under 5 minutes. Sorta like the car ferry to Chappaquick, French style.
Long Wednesday.
