For this pilgrimage, all of our arrangements had been made for us by an Australian company, RAW Travel. We had met yesterday at the tourist office in Kii-Tanabe with a young woman who provided us with all the maps and guides and directions for navigating this trek, so we had some specific timetables to meet this morning. We picked up a box lunch at a certain place, and then got on a local bus at 8:02 to head to start of the Kumano Koda. These are a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that crisscross the Kii Hanto, the largest peninsula in Japan. They are sacred trails and are still used for the pilgrimage to the sacred site Humano Sanzan, or the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano. These routes have been in use by people from all walks of life for a thousand years, and the rigorous nature of the trails are part of the religious rites of worship and purification. It is considered one of the great treks in the world, and since I completed the Camino de Santiago in 2014, I am eligible for a dual credential at the end of this one — something only hundreds of people achieve.
We knew that today was going to be rugged; the trail began at 82 Meters and would climb to 688 M over 9km. And the climb was over rock and tree root steps, as well as some straight incline. It was pretty challenging as a warm-up, especially the first 4km. Along the way there are shrines and small boxes on pedestals where the stamps for our passports are kept, so we had to keep an eye out for them along the way. There were excellent way markers and signposts, and while it was hot, the shade helped ensure it was manageable. There were some spots of real breathtaking views of the mountains, and smaller bits of beauty in a sudden burst of hot pink flowers in the mix of greens and browns. There were some birds chirping, several small shiny lizard-y things and even a couple of snakes — a small one for me, a large one startled Karen.
There were a few people along the way, mostly in pairs, except for one large group of Japanese on a guided tour. Their leader would stop at each shrine and plug in his loudspeaker to provide some history or background. I encountered this group on several occasions — first passing them, then being passed by them. At our spot for lunch they stopped and we tried to converse — they were very friendly. The moment I most enjoyed was when I came up behind the group and the guide at the end noticed me coming and instructed them all to move to the sides and let me pass — creating an aisle for me to walk down as they all bowed and said hello (again).
We started walking at 9am and didn’t reach the town where our accommodation was until after 4:30, which was quite a bit later than the people who run the ryokan had hoped. The owner met us at the bridge, which was a wonderful treat — it was 5 minutes by car, and another 40 to walk, so we were quite relieved. They quickly explained that dinner was at 6, but they took us to a nearby onsen so we could have that experience — a first for me! (For those who don’t know, the etiquette is as follows: you sit on a small stool with others of the same sex and wash yourself thoroughly. Then you enter the bath, base assed naked –with other people. And sit and chat. I supposed you become accustomed to the ritual — it may take a little time for this prudish American).
Dinner was served while we were still in our robes from the onsen — multiple courses of delicious Japanese traditional fare. There’s one other couple at this ryokan — from Sweden, so we compared travel stories and each retired to our tatami-floored rooms shortly afterwards. The futons will take a little getting used to, but may be just what my back needs! Tomorrow is threatening to rain hard pretty much all day. We were due to walk 21 km, but even the host here is suggesting that a bus migt be a better choice. We are headed to Hongu for 2 days, and it will be sunny the day after, so we may just not walk tomorrow and do the walk in reverse the day after. One day at a time.
Bathing/chatting naked would NOT be relaxing for me!