28.5 km today… the longest I’ve done in awhile. The first 11.5 km was alongside the road again, and had it not been for the most glorious sunrise I might’ve been cranky. I walked with Karen as far as Hospital de Orbigo, and then took the scenic route (which was a bit longer) into Astorga. And I’m so pleased I chose that path. It was a bit challenging, but through some farmland (the smells of Missouri!), and some pine forests and lovely aspen groves. The sounds were of boots on gravel, birds, and leaves rustling. Simply peaceful and beautiful.
Interesting history about the bridge (puente) in Hospital de Orbigo. It is one of the longest and best preserved medieval bridges, dating from the 13th C. It crosses the rio Orbigo, and via the passage of honor, so called because of the famous jousting tournament that took place in 1434. A noble knight from Leon, Don Suero de Quinones was rebuked by a beautiful lady and threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he defended the bridge and honor. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge and he defeated them all. (This is where I say — seriously, what’s the deal with that?) They say this guy may have been an inspiration for Don Quixote. Town still has jousting tournaments annually. Very dramatic for simply being spurned!
Another sight was the Cruceiro Santo Toribio, a stone cross commemorating the 5th C Bishop of Astorga who supposedly fell to his knees at this spot in a final farewell after being banished from the town. Again, a little dramatic I’d say.
Astorga it a town that could easily justify 2 days — several beautiful churches, including one that St Francis stopped in on his journey to Santiago, and a Gaudi-designed structure that served as the Bishop’s palace and now houses the Museo de los Camino. The city sits at the junction four critical and ancient routes, and most interestingly has an important role in the preparation of chocolate! And in the Plaza Mayor, the clock atop the town hall strikes the hour with two mechanical figures dressed in costumes of the region hitting the bell.
Another wonderful day on the Camino — physically strenuous and then historically fascinating.
sunrise this morning
Puente de Orbigo
Aspen grove whispering
A little reminder of Missouri
This on the path
Bishop’s Palace, by Gaudi
Astorga Town Hall! Look closely for figures near the bell