I was much looking forward to a day out of the city, and was quite pleased when it dawned sunny and clear, but with definite autumn temperatures. A 50 minute metro train ride brought me to Lilydale, located on Melbourne’s eastern fringe at the northern end of the Dandenong Ranges. It is the main gateway to the rich wine and fruit growing areas of the Yarra Valley. The Lilydale to Warburton Rail Trail is one of Australia’s iconic Rail Trails which meanders through the Yarra Valley between the Dandenong Ranges and the Great Dividing Range. The latter is Australia’s most substantial mountain range and is the third longest land-based range in the world. The range stretches more than 2,175 mi from Dauan Island off the northeastern tip of Queensland, running the entire length of the eastern coastline through New South Wales, then into Victoria and turning west, before finally fading into the central plain at the Grampians in western Victoria (which I also visited).
The rail line was constructed by pick and shovel in 18 months, and was completed in 1901 to carry fruite and vegetables from the Wandin farmlands in the foothills to Melbourne. Trains also took timber from the forests of Warburton and Powelltown. It used to be claimed that Yarra Junction was second only to Seattle in the volume of timber passing along it’s tracks. Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh passed through Lilydale by train 6 March 1954 on their way to Warburton. Residents along the route turned out to see the royal couple. The royal visit made such an impression that it is still vividly remembered six decades later. The train line stopped running in July, 1965 and the track was dismantled in the 70’s. Only through local citizen interest and effort did this 38 km path become the lovely walking, biking, and horseback riding trail that it is today. It was opened officially as a shared used trail in 1998.
So, I picked up the bicycle that I had rented at the bike shop in Lilydale, and while I didn’t request this feature it was provided one with motor assist — basically a battery on the back that when turned on turns the bike into a manual/electric hybrid. I rejected the use of the “assist” for most of the ride, being the one that I am for a challenge, but the elevation gain in the first 7 km was 120 m, and I must admit to having turned it on — in the lowest “gear” — and it was wonderful! It also came in very handy when the wind picked up and blew against me, which I never do well with when cycling. I can see how this new invention would keep older people (not referring to me in this example!), on bicycles longer — able to manage longer rides and not be intimidated by the possibility of getting left behind.
The path was light gravel and went through the most gorgeous pastoral landscape, with horses, cows, sheep, goats, alpaca and llama along side vineyards and farmland. Everything was so very green and lush and the mountains and hills off in the distance added to the beauty of the valley. And many of the station platforms are still there in various stages of repair. There were very few/almost no other cyclists — a few horses and many moms with baby carriages, but as I was getting close to Warburton Richard from the UK pulled up and we rode together to the end of the line. It was lunchtime, so we had some classic Australian pies (not nearly as good as Marie Callenders), and then headed back. I frankly would’ve preferred to ride alone at my pace and take in the scenery, but like many older British men Richard was fussy and thought it would be good to ride together in case something should happen to me or my bike. He’s an avid cyclist, riding twice a week with his club in Dorset, and so clearly had an edge on how to change a tire should it come to that. (But what I really want to know is what it is about older British men, or me, which makes them need to worry and fuss?) Conversation was interesting enough — he’d been a scientist with Shell Oil in the UK, and an amateur astronomer, so I really didn’t have to say much. He turned off about 6km before Lilydale so I had the last bit of the ride to myself.
And by the time I got back to the bike shop, and then on the train, the full impact of riding almost 48 miles for the day finally hit me — my butt was sore, my legs tired, and clearly it would be an early night. It was so good to be out in nature and away from cars and crowds and commerce. A beautiful day.
