February 11: Chiang Rai, The White Temple, Hot Springs

Our hotel last night was home to 5, count ’em 5, tour busses of Thai people. As I was writing the post yesterday they must’ve all arrived as the halls were alive with very, very loud Asians.  I worried that when they came back from dinner it would be more of the same, so I wore ear plugs and my famous buff headband and turned on both the bathroom fan and the air con for white noise.  It worked. After a quick breakfast we were off to the White Temple, Wat Rong Khun.

Now there’s a story for you. A Thai artist, named Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpitat, who studied at Sikpakorn University found that while European arts were popular among most students, national art was ridiculed for being ancient and not very up to date. Many prizes later, he is renowned for having brought the custom of the ancient Thai arts to a more contemporary place. He decided that he wanted to create a temple unlike any other in SE Asia, but that people would want to visit as they visit Angkor Wat or the Taj. In order to create to his own vision, he used his own funds, so as not to be beholden to other’s opinions. Construction started in 1996, and he believes that with training to his followers, it may be complete in 60-90 years.  It is a temple complex like many I’ve visited, but only a couple of the buildings are complete.  The most finished and well known is the White Temple, which depicts hell with outstretched hands and skulls, which visitors must pass by as we cross over the moat to heaven — the temple itself.  Across from the Buddha is a mural covering both the left and right of the doors which portray the coming of Buddha from the edge of the universe in Nirvana, and shows the the struggle between good and evil. Instead of more typical depictions of this battle, the mural shows a contemporary world emanating from the mouth of the evil rahu. There’s Superman and Batman and the World Trade Centers on fire, Bumblebee, a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle, Elvis, Lord Voldemort, Michael Jackson and Pikachu.  Also, the space shuttle and a Minion and Spiderman. There were no cameras allowed so you’ll have to simply picture a hell-scape with all these characters, and more, floating.

The artist chose white because it represents purity. The toilets however are buildings in gold. And they were likely the nicest bathrooms I’ve visited in all of SE Asia! There’s a museum across the way housing all the original paintings and bronzes of the founder/artist.  My favorite (again, no cameras permitted) was of George W and Bin Laden riding a warhead in space.  Reminded me of Dr. Strangelove.  Might’ve been his inspiration. Of course the man has a vision. But clearly he also has an ego. Once again, i am reminded of #notmypresident.

From there, off to a hot spring. Unlike the onsen in Japan, these were private rooms with lovely tiled tubs and a fresh supply of hot water from the local spring. We had 45 minutes for a private soak, and while I was then ready for a nap, we headed off to lunch instead. A well known place (at least in the guide books), is Cabbages and Condoms, for eating, but also it appears for staying. Mr. Mechai (aka- Mr. Condom) said that you can go to viagra online at any shop around Thailand and you will always find cabbages. Condoms should be like cabbages “ ubiquitous.  And so the name Cabbages and Condoms (C&C) was conceived. C&C is PDAs public-benefit restaurant used to promote family planning and HIV/AIDS prevention in Thailand. PDA pioneered in the concept of community-based family planning service delivery.  At the peak of their family planning (FP) promotion work, there was an army of over 12,000 FP volunteers working in 16,000 thousand villages. This covered approximately 1/3 of the Kingdom of Thailand.

Then onto the last stop of the tour. At a roadside car park, some more hot springs — more like a small geyser — where local women sell quail and/or chicken eggs which you place in the spring for 3 minutes and eat with soy sauce. Random, but quail eggs were quite delicious, once they could be peeled!

At last back in Chiang Mail, at a really lovely hotel within the old town walls, at $80/night. I leave in the morning for the beaches in the south for a couple of days to cap off my SE Asian experience. And what an experience it has been!