Feb 2: Bangkok

A completely different atmosphere and vibe just 90 minutes away from central Vietnam, Bangkok is filled with huge skyscrapers and modern amenities and clean streets and efficient public transport. Traffic is very busy at all times it seems, but there are many fewer motor scooters, and many more cars and tuk tuks. And in between the big office towers and multi-storied shopping malls are many street markets, selling fresh fruits, vegetables and street food items.

I walked through Lumphini Park to start the day, a peaceful and rather large public space with trees and a lake and benches. Many people were exercising — running or Tai Chi — but with my first glimpse in the lake I spotted an alligator! From there I walked a long way toward the river, with the intention of taking the public ferry (50 cents) to the Grand Palace. The public ferry is like the NYC subway on the water — crowded but very efficient. A short while later I found myself in a huge crowd of people exploring this enormous complex.

Established in 1782 when King Rama I ascended to the throne, it consists of the royal residence and throne halls and several government offices, in addition to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It covers over 218,000 square meters, surrounded by walls. North of the royal residence is the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha, one of the most venerated sites in Thailand. It was carved from a block of green jade and discovered in 1434 in a stupa in Chiang Rai. It had been covered in plaster and it was only due to that plaster flaking off in a spot that the jade was discovered and initially though to be emerald. The Buddha itself has been enshrined both in Thailand and in Laos due to some break in the royal lineage, and it required the Thai army to take it back in 1778 when Thailand conquered Laos. The upper terrace of one section of the complex has several different architectural styles, and a miniature Angkor Wat crafted at the order of King Rama IV. Strolling around the grounds there was one beautiful structure after another, all in service to some aspect of the government and monarchy and religion.

From there it was a short walk to Wat Pho, another complex of glorious buildings, many Buddhas and the most famous of all, the huge Reclining Buddha which is over 150 ft. long. This temple complex dates from the late 18th Century and is one of the largest and oldest Wats in Bangkok, covering over 80,000 sq meters. It is home to over 1,000 Buddha images including standing Buddhas, sitting Buddhas, gold and bronze Buddhas. Wat Pho was intended to serve as a place of education for the general public. To this end a pictorial encyclopedia was engraved on granite slabs covering eight subject areas: history, medicine, health, custom, literature, proverbs, lexicography, and the Buddhist religion. Wat Pho is regarded as Thailand’s first university and a center for traditional Thai massage. It served as a medical teaching center in the mid-19th century before the advent of modern medicine, and the temple remains a center for traditional medicine today where a private school for Thai medicine founded in 1957 still operates. Beautiful structures, some lovely fountains, and far fewer tourists strolled the grounds making it quite enjoyable, although it was quite hot.

And I found my way to a ferry stop, and then to a sky train station that deposited me quite near the hotel, so I was able to avoid the terrible traffic. I’m now debating how to avoid that same traffic as I sort out somewhere to have dinner!